Mexico City in Superlatives

A highly subjective list of the best of CDMX.

Recently, someone asked me why the modern dining norm is to take photos before eating—after all, before smartphones, we simply chowed down. As someone who finds making everyone wait to eat for a photo terribly embarrassing, despite having a very legitimate reason to document my dining, it was an interesting question. And, while having a joyfully long meal at Quintonil at the end of a recent trip to Mexico City, where I photographed everything I ate, I had plenty of time to think. 

Perhaps it was all of the great visual art I had seen on the trip swirling in my head, but I found myself returning to the idea of food as a form of art—in a way the most engaging form because of the way it touches all five senses. (Last year, I explored the idea of food as theater.) 

Over four days, I experienced some of the most beautiful displays of food, whether it was intricately plated at one of the world’s best restaurants or naturally vibrant under the sun next to a street stall. I realized that I was drawn to document all of my food due to its ephemeral nature—I could probably see ”The Starry Night” again whenever I visit the MoMA, and it would look the same as I had last seen it, but I’ll never again be served the exact same quenelle of caviar atop crème fraîche ice cream, even if I did have the privilege of meeting the dish again. And so when the spoon is licked clean, all I have left are the photographs… forgive me if I’d like to hang onto a scrap of something wonderful.

An assault on the senses in the best of ways, I feel so full and fulfilled returning from Mexico City. I ate too much to fit it all in one newsletter, so instead of going through each meal in detail, here are the winning dishes of the superlatives that I made up, yearbook style.

Drinks

Best Martini: Handshake Speakeasy, Fig Martini

I don’t even like figs, but this fig martini was the best drink I had all trip. It had a very strong fig flavor, but it actually perfectly balanced out the alcohol of the gin. Viraj will testify that I couldn’t shut up about this martini all trip.

Best Cocktail Ingredient: Contramar, Tamarind

I accidentally ordered a tamarind mezcal margarita at Contramar. Once again, I didn’t think I liked tamarind, but it was great in this drink.

Weirdest Cocktail: Handshake Speakeasy, Caprese

Another drink from Handshake, this frightening mixture of gin, basil and tomato cordial tasted exactly like a caprese salad. Terrifying and I wouldn’t order it again, but definitely give it a try if you get a chance.

Food

Best Tostada: Contramar, Tostadas de Atún

Even though the scallop tostada looked more interesting visually, Contramar’s tuna tostada demonstrated that with the best ingredients simplicity reigns supreme. The crispy leeks added the perfect texture and flavor to an otherwise creamy tostada topping. Simply incredible.

Best Taco: El Huequito

As a part of a street food tour, Viraj and I visited El Huequito for their al pastor tacos. The meat was acidic and crispy (when appropriate), and I liked how it was served in a little roll instead of open-faced.

Best Tamale: Rosetta, Tamales de Elote

I’ve always felt that tamales are a bit too dry and bland for my taste, but it turns out I just haven’t been having the right ones. Although these weren’t filled, Rosetta’s tamales are the best I’ve ever had—they had the vague taste and texture of cornbread in the best way, and the smoked cream on top made the dish that much better.

Best Use of Corn: Maximo, Roasted Baby Corn

I had an unbelievable amount of corn on this trip, especially if you include corn tortillas, yet this was the unexpected winner. Topped with a hefty amount of hollandaise and parmesan, this dish was corn-forward and rich in all the right ways. It definitely helps that I found that Mexican corn seemed to taste a bit more interesting compared to boring ol’ American corn.

Best Dessert: Quintonil, Crème Fraîche Ice Cream and Caviar

I love desserts that are unexpected, and this was my first time having caviar in a dessert. The crème fraîche was tangy and the caviar tasted like the sea, but it all somehow all came together when paired with honey and passion fruit.

Best Savory Bite: Quintonil, Mussels Tostada

Everything about this dish was brilliant. But, this dish wins because of the mole del mar, mole made with fresh scallops, and because it’s thought-provoking: How did they get the “tostada” tart shell so thin? How does one infuse the taste of scallops into mole? The best dishes always lead to further questions.

Misc.

Best Plates: Rosetta

I’ve always wanted to eat on a Ginori 1735 plate. Now, I have.

Best Tree (Inside a Restaurant): Maximo

It’s crazy that this was even a competitive category, but it was. I loved how much greenery there was in the city, even in the indoor spaces. I had the honor of dining next to a tree inside Maximo. Honestly, it really made a difference in the ambiance.

Best View During Dinner: Quintonil

I’ve said this over and over again in this newsletter, but I love open kitchens and chef’s counters because it allows diners to appreciate the delicate choreography that happens every night in every restaurant kitchen. I especially loved watching Quintonil’s kitchen at work, I spent most of the meal simply in awe. 

In fact, looking back at these too-short days in Mexico City, being in awe was the theme of the trip. What a magical place, I hope I’m back again soon.